Traditional Chinese Clothing for Men

China is a land of subtle nuance. Slight variations in mens' garments are not always the result of fashion whim; rather, they speak of idealogical shifts and political intrigues. Although an outsider may not notice tiny alterations between men's robes of different dynasties, those well-versed in Chinese culture garner important political information from such details. Whether or not China will incorporate these nuances into currrently popular Western styles remains to be seen.

Noble Attire
When the Chinese domesticated silkworms sometime before 3000 B.C., they created one of the most important fabric industries in the world. For 5,000 years thereafter, the clothing staple of China's upper class was a silk robe with loose sleeves and a sash-style belt.

Embroidered dragons, a religious symbol, appeared only on royal robes. The long, loose-fitting chao fu, or formal robe, eventually became the preferred court garment. The emperor wore a golden yellow chao fu; his sons donned a similar but softer shade. Other noblemen adopted red or other brightly colored chao fus with embroidered birds or similar creatures.

Everyday Clothing
Class distinctions were pronounced and only upper classes were legally allowed to wear ornate clothing. Lower classes wore solid colors or very simple cotton prints. The chang shan, a long robe, and ma gua, a hip-length jacket, formed the most popular male outfit for the general population. The ankle-length chang shan sported a small collar and came in blue, black, gray or other dark colors. A wearer's status would determine whether the garment was made of silk or cotton.

Republican Style
When Dr. Sun Yat-sen established a Chinese republic in 1912, he encouraged westernization. Dr. Yat-sen wore the zhong shan suit, which incorporated both traditional Chinese and Western designs. While the trousers sported a European flair, the jacket displayed the familiar collar, length and buttons of a Chinese ma gua. Dr. Yat-sen's government praised men as patriots when they wore the suit in China's cities.

Mao Uniforms
During Mao Zedong's rule from 1949 to 1976, the regime promoted conformity of thought and profoundly affected clothing style. A modification of the zhong shan suit, the Mao uniform dominated men's attire. The uniform was plain and loose fitting, with few buttons and unembellished seams. The suit's colors, dull green, blue or gray, exemplified the selflessness and collective mentality of the era. Nearly all men and women wore the suit, many out of fear of nonconformity and public denouncement.

Traditional Clothing Today
After the death of Mao in 1976, the restrictions against Western clothing eased. Today, the old chang shan and Mao uniforms have disappeared and nearly all Chinese men wear Western suits.

Traditional men's dress is still seen, however, in the many Chinese folk dance groups that perform all over the world. Throughout the year and particularly during the Chinese Lunar New Year celebration, the dance companies perform in venues such as Universal Studios in California. These performers keep alive the colorful history and culture that is China.