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2013年2月1日星期五

Traditional Chinese Clothing for Men

China is a land of subtle nuance. Slight variations in mens' garments are not always the result of fashion whim; rather, they speak of idealogical shifts and political intrigues. Although an outsider may not notice tiny alterations between men's robes of different dynasties, those well-versed in Chinese culture garner important political information from such details. Whether or not China will incorporate these nuances into currrently popular Western styles remains to be seen.

Noble Attire
When the Chinese domesticated silkworms sometime before 3000 B.C., they created one of the most important fabric industries in the world. For 5,000 years thereafter, the clothing staple of China's upper class was a silk robe with loose sleeves and a sash-style belt.

Embroidered dragons, a religious symbol, appeared only on royal robes. The long, loose-fitting chao fu, or formal robe, eventually became the preferred court garment. The emperor wore a golden yellow chao fu; his sons donned a similar but softer shade. Other noblemen adopted red or other brightly colored chao fus with embroidered birds or similar creatures.

Everyday Clothing
Class distinctions were pronounced and only upper classes were legally allowed to wear ornate clothing. Lower classes wore solid colors or very simple cotton prints. The chang shan, a long robe, and ma gua, a hip-length jacket, formed the most popular male outfit for the general population. The ankle-length chang shan sported a small collar and came in blue, black, gray or other dark colors. A wearer's status would determine whether the garment was made of silk or cotton.

Republican Style
When Dr. Sun Yat-sen established a Chinese republic in 1912, he encouraged westernization. Dr. Yat-sen wore the zhong shan suit, which incorporated both traditional Chinese and Western designs. While the trousers sported a European flair, the jacket displayed the familiar collar, length and buttons of a Chinese ma gua. Dr. Yat-sen's government praised men as patriots when they wore the suit in China's cities.

Mao Uniforms
During Mao Zedong's rule from 1949 to 1976, the regime promoted conformity of thought and profoundly affected clothing style. A modification of the zhong shan suit, the Mao uniform dominated men's attire. The uniform was plain and loose fitting, with few buttons and unembellished seams. The suit's colors, dull green, blue or gray, exemplified the selflessness and collective mentality of the era. Nearly all men and women wore the suit, many out of fear of nonconformity and public denouncement.

Traditional Clothing Today
After the death of Mao in 1976, the restrictions against Western clothing eased. Today, the old chang shan and Mao uniforms have disappeared and nearly all Chinese men wear Western suits.

Traditional men's dress is still seen, however, in the many Chinese folk dance groups that perform all over the world. Throughout the year and particularly during the Chinese Lunar New Year celebration, the dance companies perform in venues such as Universal Studios in California. These performers keep alive the colorful history and culture that is China.

What is Appropriate Business Attire in China

As China's economy continues to soar, more and more Westerners go to the country to conduct business with Chinese entrepreneurs. When dealing with your Chinese business counterparts, it is important to remain aware of Chinese cultural practices and customs that may differ from the Western way of doing business. As clothes are the first thing a person sees, dressing right for the Chinese is a vital ingredient in making a good impression.

History
Following the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, international business from Europe and America was essentially ended under Mao Zedong. After Mao's death, however, Deng Xiaoping rose to power in 1978 and opened up market reforms known as "Socialism With Chinese Characteristics." Today, China is a relatively open-society with a great deal of international investment.

Setting
Like all aspects of Chinese culture, business in China has been guided by Confucian principles for the past 2,500 years. Consequently, maintaining face while preserving harmonious relationships play a large role in doing business in China. It is wise to help your Chinese colleagues maintain face by praising their merits and accomplishments, and by being gentle when giving criticism. If possible, give your Chinese colleagues the benefit of the doubt and they will likely get the hint. Gift giving is a normal part of Chinese business conduct, and should be reciprocated.

Fashion
In recent decades Chinese businesspeople have taken to western business attire. Their clothes are generally conservative and contain dull colors, as they do not appreciate appreciate clothes with loud colors or attention-grabbing gimmicks; this is definitely not the country to wear your bright-red blouse or your Metallica necktie. You should instead blend in with your Chinese counterparts' mode of dress.

Men's Attire
Since 1949 the iconic mandarin-collared Mao suit has long been associated as the staple of Chinese men's formalwear. The Mao suit has fallen out of fashion in recent years, however, and western formal attire is the norm amongst Chinese businessmen. The standard attire is conservative, subdued and doesn't beg for attention. Wearing a gray jacket, light-blue necktie and white collared shirt is a great place to start.

Women's Attire
The same rules apply for women as they do for men; conservative western attire with neutral colors. Avoid flashy jewelry, such as large earrings or necklaces, and do not wear revealing clothing, such as see-through blouses or low-cut skirts. Shoes should be low-heeled or flat, and high heels are to be avoided in business settings. A simple knee-length skirt and a blouse with a reasonably cut neckline should suffice.